Saturday 18 August 2012

Jointers and Smoothers

Here is the Lignum sole being glued on the base of one of the jointers, I have found many clamps gives a better joint than using a caul. I apply Polyeurathane glue to one side and water to the other. I use demineralised water for all workshop tasks to avoid possible contamination, it is a by product from my dehumidifier.

Here is the marking out for the high angled smoothers, a template with the position of the cross pin, the bed angles and the mouth is helpful. I drill all the locating dowel holes as well as the cross pin hole before removing the sides.

This is my set up for cutting the sides, a home made Mag Switch fence which is dead square and a Mag Switch feather board to prevent any wobbles. The blade is a 3tpi Lennox Trimaster carbide with a 1" width and I proceed at about 1' in 30 seconds. This may seem slow but the trade off is a surface which compares to coming off a planer.

The resulting surface ready to glue up, this saves a lot of time and prevents an unsightly glue line.

Here are some of the smoothers with a trim up freehand on the band saw. It takes just 3 minutes (in skilled hands!) to transform the glued up block into a shaped plane that's surprisingly comfortable. Krenov would have touched these up with a file and left them like that.

Here are the five jointers ready for finishing inside and glue up, not forgetting to insert the cross pin!


  1. Hi David,

    I was surprised to read that you use polyurethane glue. Is that only because of the oiliness of the Lignum vitae? What type of glue do you use for less oily woods?


  2. Hi Chris, you're right, the Lignum is about as oily as they get that's why it's so good as a plane sole. Plus it is very hard. The rest of the plane is glued up with Titebond yellow glue. All the best, David.

  3. That is an incredibly smooth surface from your bandsaw, do you have the blade re-sharpened or is it disposable?

    Regards, Mark white

  4. Hi Mark, yes the blades can be re sharpened 2 or 3 times but they have to be done by hand so it is quite expensive. The blades cost around £150 and the sharpening about £50 so it's worth it. One sharpen lasts me about 6 months, the carbide teeth wear very slowly so the overall cost is not too bad. All the best, David.

  5. Great post, pallets are hard to work with and this maes it look easy. I love making making things out of pallets
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